How much tile for a backsplash?
Multiply the length of the counter run by the height to the cabinets — usually 18 inches — and subtract any window. A 10-foot run at 18" is 15 sq ft; take out a 36" x 14" window and it's 11.5 sq ft. Then add 10% for cuts and breakage.
Counting tiles is more reliable than square feet for small tiles, because every cut at the ends, around the window and under the cabinets uses a whole tile. In that example with 3" x 6" subway tile and 1/16" joints, the layout uses 105 pieces — 39 of them cut — so buy about 116 tiles.
Where to start the layout
Start the first row with full tiles on the countertop; the cut row goes at the top under the cabinets, where it's least visible. Center the columns on the wall (or on the range or sink, the focal point) so the pieces at both ends match. The planner tries a joint on center and a tile on center and keeps whichever gives wider end pieces.
Grout, thinset and trim
- Grout: backsplash joints are usually 1/16"–1/8", which calls for unsanded grout.
- Mortar: a 3/16" V-notch trowel suits small wall tile; premixed mortar is fine for small ceramic tile in dry areas.
- Edges: where the tile stops in mid-air, finish it with a metal edge trim or bullnose tile.
- Outlets: tile adds depth, so outlet boxes need extenders to bring the devices flush.
- Caulk: where tile meets the counter and cabinets, use silicone, not grout, so the joint can move.
Peel-and-stick
Peel-and-stick sheets have no grout and no mortar. Count sheets the same way — every cut uses a sheet — and clean the wall well first, because grease stops them sticking.
Tiling a floor too? Use the tile calculator. Need only grout? Try the grout calculator.