How wide should a raised bed be?
Four feet is the classic width: you can reach the middle from either side without stepping on the soil, which keeps it loose. Against a wall or fence, where you can only reach from one side, keep beds 2–3 ft wide. Length is up to you; 8 ft matches standard lumber with no waste on the long sides.
How tall?
Two stacked 2x6 boards (11") are deep enough for most vegetables, especially over loosened ground soil. Go 17"–22" for carrots and potatoes on poor or compacted soil, or to save your back. Beds 24" and taller are easier to garden from a seat but take a lot of soil — and tall sides need a brace in the middle.
Paths
Leave 18"–24" between beds to kneel and walk, and 36" where a wheelbarrow or garden cart needs to pass. Cardboard or landscape fabric under wood chips keeps paths weed-free.
How much soil?
Multiply the inside length, width and depth of each bed. A 4' x 8' bed 11" deep holds about 25 cu ft inside its frame; the planner adds 10% because new soil settles. Bagged raised-bed mix is easy for one or two beds; for more than about a cubic yard, bulk delivery is usually cheaper. A common home blend is about 60% screened topsoil and 40% compost.
Choosing lumber
Cedar and redwood resist rot without treatment and last 10 years or more. Pressure-treated lumber made since 2004 uses copper-based preservatives instead of arsenic and is rated for ground contact; if you'd rather keep it away from the soil, line the inside with plastic sheeting. Boards are cut so the long sides run full length and the ends fit between them; the cut list packs those pieces into the fewest boards.
Planting by the square foot
The dots in the plan mark one square foot each. Typical spacing: one tomato, pepper or broccoli per square; four lettuce or chard; nine bush beans or spinach; sixteen carrots or radishes.
Mulching the paths? Size it with the gravel and mulch calculator.